Into the Mountains

Oaxaca is a fascinating city, but my country spirit was thrilled to climb on a bus for the Mexteca area north of the city. We traveled north in the Central Valley for a bit, then began to climb into the mountains. (Oaxaca, like Denver, sits at about 5,000 feet above sea level and the mountains go to 10,000 feet and more.)

After a stunningly beautiful ride, we arrived in Nochixtlan, where we visited the CEDICAM project (center for Integral Development of Campesinos of the Mexteca). We were greeted by Phil Dahl-Bredine (worked for many years with Mary Knoll in Latine America and has spent more than the last decade as a volunteer with CEDICAM).

Phil took us on a tour of the little museum that tells a little of the Mexteca story and in particular their relationship to the land. For several thousand years they have lived on this land, growing corn so drought resistant it can go form5 months with no rain, inter-planting crops in a way that maximizes growth and continuously feeds the soil. Food crops, flowers and medicinal plants are all grown together in complex mixture.

CEDICAM was started in 1997 after beginning under another organization. To be a member you must be a campesino and a Mexteco. There are 14 facilitators who train local people to be promoters in the villages, helping people relearn the traditional ways of farming so that they don't have to buy seed or fertilizer or expensive tools while benefiting from research and technology when it benefits this sustainable way.

Much of our lively discussion revolved around the amazing work being done on sustainability that we in the north don't hear enough about. Monoculture is destroying the earth. It isn't sustainable. We have much to learn from the local economies that live more sustainably and use more local agricultural methods. Phil has a book you might be interested in, The Other Game. I will try to write more on this in coming months.

Following our meeting with Phil were climbed back in the bus for a wild two hour rodeo very tiny and hilly dirt roads to the village of San Miguel Huatla, at about 7,000 feet above sea level.

Home to about 250 families, about 75 families are active members in CEDICAM and they are looking to double in size. Everyone here is a subsistence farmer. CEDICAM helps them expand their crops, increase yield with organic practices, supports the communal practices that help reduce the need for cash and strengthens community. Actually very few people migrate from this village, which suggests it as a model for other struggling agricultural communities. Several amazing women took us for a hike up the hillside to see the see their gardens, worm farms and wheat/pea/and corn fields. It was an incredible afternoon.

 

A tired crew got back on the bus for the three hour trip back to the city. Doing the winding dirt roads in the dark added a whole new layer to the experience!  (The stars were beautiful!)

Lessons from Oaxaca

This morning after a lovely breakfast and time together for reflection, we climbed into taxis and rode to the building housing Services for an Alternative Education, where Miguel AngelbVasquez de la Rosa made a presentation on their work. EDUCATION is an NGO that focuses on responding to the most urgent needs of the people in situations of economic, social and political vulnerability. EDUCATION supports indigenous communities and organizations in Oaxaca in defense of their rights to civic participation, observation of electoral processes in indigenous communities and studies the traditional judicial system in the Coastal, Mixteca and Southern Mountain region of Oaxaca.

After an amazing lunch and walk in the neighborhood we went to a lovely convent where Witness for Peace had rented a room. Our next speaker was delayed because of some street blockades near his office - apparently a common thing. The occupy movement could learn a great deal by studying the social movements here!

Juan Gutierrez, from the Oaxacan Migrant Services Institute (IOAM), the state agency that provides legal assistance an other services to Oaxacan migrants and their home communities. They use various strategies (street theater, programs in schools, films and conferences) to educate Oaxacans about the risks and realities of migration, as well as works to create opportunities for migrants to build community and share information. Both our speaker and the agency director are indigenous people themselves, and have experience with binational community organizing. They are proposing some reforms to state government to better address the complex reality.

And complex it is. Agricultural workers migrate within Oaxaca on a seasonal basis. Because of the rural poverty (created in large part by a series of U.S. and Mexican policies) many also migrate within Mexico, going both to Mexico City and to agricultural areas further north. A sizable number go to the United StAtes (many also used to do that seasonally before the border tightened). In part because it is so hard to come back, the demographics shifted from migration being something that primarily men did, to something men and women did together, to more recently, whole family groups and communities migrating together. The other sizable piece of the challenge is the movement of Latin American and Central American migrants through the state.


The afternoon ended with a "game" of Soccer for Suckers, a fun way to learn about imbalance of power in the global economy, followed by an exploration of how the "Drug War" factors into the complexity.

The evening was for slow walks in the lovely cooler air, dinner near the zocalo, and preparing for tomorrow.

First Day in Oaxaca

Today is the first full day in Oaxaca Mexico with the AFSC/Witness for Peace delegation to Oaxaca to learn from people here about their economic reality, the roots of migration and the impact of migration on the communities people leave behind.

The view of the courtyard and sky from our room.

We woke to cool fresh air and brilliant blue skies. Using the Hostel Don Miguel as our base, we set about the process of becoming a group for this week of learning, then moved on to interactive learning about the global economy, and in particular it's impact on Mexico. In the afternoon we went for a history walk, with local Witness for Peace staff briefing us on Oaxacan and Mexican history, including indigenous history.

Oaxaca is a city of about 500,000 people in the State of Oaxaca. It is the second poorest state in the country. About one third of the state's population speak one of the sixteen indigenous languages. More than 50% of Oaxacans farm, the majority on community held lands.

Farming has been devastated in many ways by global finance, NAFTA, and programs the government agreed to to get IMF and World Bank loans. when people are hungry and unable to provide for their families, one of the main options is to move to a place with more opportunity. There has been substantial migration with in Mexico as well as movement to the United States.

A sculptural installation along several blocks representing the huge impact of migration on the city.

Tonight our heads are spinning with the complexities of economic history, the history of a variety of empirial powers, and how it has all played out in this place. We have had a little time to explore the zocalo (central plaza) and some of the nearby neighborhoods. Tomorrow we begin meeting with people from the community who will share their insights and experience.

Making Change Happen

This month's calendar is full of ways to help work for change.  There are meetings and legislative press conferences, general assemblies and vigils.  At a recent Occupy meeting I listened to a young activist lending support to some work on the state legislature say "We have to do more than march around in the street.  The marching is good, but we have to talk to people who can make things better".
It's true.  The marching is important.  And there are limits to what the existing political structure can do.  But if it can help stop racial profiling by the police and if it can keep people in their homes after foreclosure - let's try to make it happen.  So learn about your favorite issue (AFSC-SENE has a list of bills we would love your help on, on the website)  We will update this list weekly with information on hearings, press conferences and rallies.  You can watch the great video on racial profiling made by Youth in Action here.
Take Action: I know, calling Congress can feel like a pointless exercise, but it isn't.  On a good day, a flood of calls does make a difference,  On a bad day, they know we don't like what they are doing - and that matters.  Our silence can be read as agreement.  I don't want my grandchildren asking "Why didn't you try to fix it, Nana?"   We owe our kids and grandkids that.  And if it all feels pointless, get involved with the Occupy movement, which stands outside of most political activity and insists on deep system change.
That said:  go to http://www.afsc.org/action/tell-congress-they-must-cut-military-spendingand voice your thoughts about the attempts to make deep cuts in human needs spending while sparing the military spending (which at about 60% of the spending, should be the place to start).  Email your congressional people and/or write a letter to the editor.  The link helps you with wording if you want help.
  Many thanks