Into the Mountains

Oaxaca is a fascinating city, but my country spirit was thrilled to climb on a bus for the Mexteca area north of the city. We traveled north in the Central Valley for a bit, then began to climb into the mountains. (Oaxaca, like Denver, sits at about 5,000 feet above sea level and the mountains go to 10,000 feet and more.)

After a stunningly beautiful ride, we arrived in Nochixtlan, where we visited the CEDICAM project (center for Integral Development of Campesinos of the Mexteca). We were greeted by Phil Dahl-Bredine (worked for many years with Mary Knoll in Latine America and has spent more than the last decade as a volunteer with CEDICAM).

Phil took us on a tour of the little museum that tells a little of the Mexteca story and in particular their relationship to the land. For several thousand years they have lived on this land, growing corn so drought resistant it can go form5 months with no rain, inter-planting crops in a way that maximizes growth and continuously feeds the soil. Food crops, flowers and medicinal plants are all grown together in complex mixture.

CEDICAM was started in 1997 after beginning under another organization. To be a member you must be a campesino and a Mexteco. There are 14 facilitators who train local people to be promoters in the villages, helping people relearn the traditional ways of farming so that they don't have to buy seed or fertilizer or expensive tools while benefiting from research and technology when it benefits this sustainable way.

Much of our lively discussion revolved around the amazing work being done on sustainability that we in the north don't hear enough about. Monoculture is destroying the earth. It isn't sustainable. We have much to learn from the local economies that live more sustainably and use more local agricultural methods. Phil has a book you might be interested in, The Other Game. I will try to write more on this in coming months.

Following our meeting with Phil were climbed back in the bus for a wild two hour rodeo very tiny and hilly dirt roads to the village of San Miguel Huatla, at about 7,000 feet above sea level.

Home to about 250 families, about 75 families are active members in CEDICAM and they are looking to double in size. Everyone here is a subsistence farmer. CEDICAM helps them expand their crops, increase yield with organic practices, supports the communal practices that help reduce the need for cash and strengthens community. Actually very few people migrate from this village, which suggests it as a model for other struggling agricultural communities. Several amazing women took us for a hike up the hillside to see the see their gardens, worm farms and wheat/pea/and corn fields. It was an incredible afternoon.

 

A tired crew got back on the bus for the three hour trip back to the city. Doing the winding dirt roads in the dark added a whole new layer to the experience!  (The stars were beautiful!)